Electric Water Heaters FAQ
Tronic 3000 US3/6/7/9/12, RP1P/2P/3P/7P/9P/12PT, and AE3.4/7.2/9.5 Tankless Water Heaters
The water heater turns on when I use hot water, but the temperature seems too low.
The temperature of the hot water that it produces will be affected by:
1. The model that you have installed. We offer a range of point of use electric tankless water heaters, and the heating capacity will vary between the models.
2. The temperature setting that you have selected. Depending on the model installed you will have either a circuit board with a temperature knob on it, or a mechanical flow switch that has a screw that can be loosened and slid to either "LO" or "HI".
Before removing the front cover to make adjustments, please isolate the water heater from the power supply by turning off the correct circuit breaker inside your breaker panel!
3. The flow rate of the hot water fixture that you are feeding from the water heater. In a tankless water heater the cold supply water is heated as it flows through the heating coil, and so the faster the water moves the less heat energy that it will be able to absorb from the heating elements.
If you have selected the highest available temperature setting but the output water temperature is too low for you, then you will need to reduce the water flow rate to allow more heat energy to get into the water before it leaves the water heater.
If your water flow needs are too high for the model that you have installed, you may need to consider a model that has a higher heating capacity.
4. Supply voltage. Each model has an electrical installation requirement that must be met, and if the supply voltage is less than the model requires this can result in a reduced heating capacity.
Example; The Bosch Tronic 3000 US9 model is rated for 240vac. It will work down to 208vac but will lose approximately 25% of its ability to heat the water.
For full performance capabilities and further information on adjusting the temperature, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page
How can I adjust the temperature of the hot water?
For Models With A Circuit Board (US12, RP12P, AE12):
1. Isolate the water heater from the power supply by turning off the correct circuit breaker in your breaker panel.
2. Remove the front cover of the water heater.
3. Look for the tall plastic knob that is on the circuit board. Adjust it as needed.
4. Replace the front cover, turn the circuit breaker back on, test the water temperature.
For All Other Models:
1. Isolate the water heater from the power supply by turning off the correct circuit breaker in your breaker panel.
2. Remove the front cover of the water heater.
3. Look for the mechanical flow switch, and you will see a small screw next to a "LO" and "HI" sticker.
4. Loosen the screw enough to be able to slide it to either "LO" or "HI" as desired. Retighten the screw.
a. "HI" setting will use both internal heating elements to heat the water, offering full power.
b. "LO" setting will use only one heating element to heat the water, resulting in 50% power.
c. You must slide the screw fully to either "LO" or "HI", the water heater may not operate correctly if the screw is set in between the two settings.
5. Replace the front cover, turn the circuit breaker back on, test the water temperature.
Note: If you have selected the highest temperature setting for your water heater, and your voltage supply is correct for that model, then you will need to slow the water flow rate down in order to gain a higher output water temperature.
For full performance capabilities and further information on adjusting the temperature, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page
The water heater does not turn on when I open the hot water fixture.
These are the most common causes for failure to activate with water flow:
1. No power. Please check that the electrical installation is correct for the specific model and that adequate power is being supplied to the water heater.
2. Water flow rate. Each model requires a certain minimum GPM (gallons per minute) water flow through it to activate the internal flow switch. If you have verified that correct power is being supplied to the water heater then it may be the case that your hot water fixture is only allowing a flow rate that is below the minimum needed to activate the water heater. If you can speed the water up to be above the activation rate, the water heater should turn on.
For minimum flow rate requirements, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page; LINK
3. The internal thermal cutout safety device may have tripped. Your water heater contains a safety device that senses the temperature of the copper heating coil, and if an overheating condition occurs this device will trip and prevent power from reaching the flow switch.
To reset the thermal cutout switch:
a. Isolate the water heater from the power supply by turning off the correct circuit breaker in your breaker panel.
b. Remove the front cover of the water heater.
c. Locate the thermal cutout device and press the small button that is in the middle of it. If it clicks in, then the device was tripped.
d. Replace the front cover, turn the circuit breaker back on, test that the water heater now turns on when water is flowing.
For further information, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page
Can I install an electrical plug and cord on the water heater and power it from a power outlet?
No, this water heater is designed and approved to be hard-wired only and must NOT be plugged in to an electrical outlet.
Note: If the water heater is installed in a location that is out of the sight of the breaker panel that is supplying it with power, a circuit breaker lockout or additional local means of disconnection for all non-grounded conductors must be provided that is within sight of the appliance. (REF NEC 422.31).
For full installation requirements, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page
Can I use this water heater as a booster to my main water heating source?
No, this water heater is designed and approved to be supplied with unheated potable water only.
If you are in need of a small water heater that can be used in a booster application, please take a look at our Bosch Tronic 3000T range of mini-tank electric water heaters instead!
Are there any plumbing topics that should be considered?
Yes:
1. We highly recommend that you use water shut-off valves when installing the water heater. This can help with adjusting the maximum water flow rate through the water heater if you need to increase the temperature of the hot water that it produces.
2. Never use pipe dope to seal the water connections, as it can lead to damage to the flow switch and internal heating elements. Use only teflon tape to seal the connections.
3. Try to keep the pipe as short as possible between the water heater and the hot water fixture that it is supplying. This will minimize the wait time for hot water to arrive at the faucet.
4. Check valves or any other types of backflow preventer must not be installed within 6ft of the cold water inlet connection.
5. Do not use PEX or PVC piping materials to or from the water heater. We recommend either rigid copper piping or stainless steel flexible piping.
6. Never supply this water heater with pre-heated water. It must be supplied with unheated potable water only.
For full installation requirements, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page
Water is leaking from the water heater, what can I do?
In the event of a water leak:
1. The very first thing that you should do is Isolate the water heater from the power supply by turning off the correct circuit breaker in your breaker panel.
2. Next, turn off the water supply to the water heater. If the water is leaking from inside the water heater, skip to Step 4.
3. If the water is leaking from where plumbing is connected to the water heater:
a. Remove the pipe and inspect it for damage.
b. Inspect the water connection nipples on the water heater for damage.
c. If no damage is evident, wipe clean all water connection surfaces and reconnect the piping to the water heater. If a threaded connection was used, reapply teflon tape to the water heater's threaded connections prior to screwing the pipe fitting back on.
d. Once the plumbing is reconnected, open up water supply to the water heater and check that the leak has stopped.
4. If the water is leaking from where the internal mechanical flow switch is plumbed into an internal copper pipe:
a. Unscrew the two small fittings.
b. Ensure that they are clean and undamaged.
c. Screw them back into place.
d. Open up the water supply to the water heater and check that the leak has stopped.
e. If the leak has not stopped it may be necessary to replace the whole flow switch assembly.
5. If the water is leaking from the body of the internal mechanical flow switch:
a. A new flow switch will be needed.
6. If the water is leaking from the internal copper coil pipe:
a. The water heater must be replaced.
Note: Do not turn the electrical supply to the water back on until any water leaking has been rectified.
For further details and the parts list, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page
Are there any regular maintenance actions that need to be taken for this water heater?
No, this water heater contains no parts that require regular maintenance.
What are the electrical installation requirements for this product?
Tronic 3000 US3/US3-2R, Powerstream RP3P, and Powerstar AE3.4 Models;
120vac - 30A Single Pole Breaker - 10AWG (minimum) Wire Size.
Tronic 3000 US4-2R Model;
240vac - 20A Double Pole Breaker - 10AWG (minimum) Wire Size.
Tronic 3000 US6, Powerstream RP2P Models;
277vac - 25A Single Pole Breaker - 10AWG (minimum) Wire Size.
Tronic 3000 US7/US7-2R, Powerstream RP7P, and Powerstar AE7.2 Models;
240vac - 30A Double Pole Breaker - 10AWG (minimum) Wire Size.
Tronic 3000 US9/US9-2R, Powerstream RP1P, and Powerstar AE9.5 Models;
240vac - 40A Double Pole Breaker - 8AWG (minimum) Wire Size.
Powerstream RP9P Model;
277vac - 35A Single Pole Breaker - 8AWG (minimum) Wire Size.
Tronic 3000 US12, Powerstream RP12P, and Powerstar AE12 Models;
240vac - 50A Double Pole Breaker - 6AWG (minimum) Wire Size.
For further details and the parts list, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page
Tronic 3000T ES2.5/4/8, GL2.5/4/8Ti, and GL2.5/4/6+ Mini Tank Water Heaters
What Is An Anode Rod, And Why Does It Need To Be Checked/Replaced?
The anode rod is a replaceable component inside many water storage tanks, including our electric mini-tank products, and its purpose is to sacrifice itself over time to protect the water tank from corrosion.
In order to prevent the metal components of the tank from corroding it is important to check the condition of the anode rod regularly and replace it if it is heavily pitted or dissolved.
Failure to do so can result in premature failure of the water heater, and flooding of the property.
As the corrosive properties of water can vary from location to location, the frequency of when you should check the condition of the anode rod differs too, but we recommend from six months to annually.
Damage caused to the product, and any subsequent property damage, resulting from not following the required anode rod maintenance according to the product manual is not covered under warranty.
For instructions on how to check the anode rod, please refer to this service bulletin (PDF 0.3 MB) or see video below.
Anode rod part numbers:
When you need to replace the anode rod, please ensure that you use the correct replacement for your water heater.
ES2.5, ES4, GL2.5, GL2.5Ti, GL4, and GL4Ti water heaters: Part# 7738007315*
*This updated anode rod spare part is shorter and thicker than the former version (87387044470), but is fully backwards-compatible.
ES8, GL8Ti, and GL6+ water heaters: Part# 87387044480
The Red Light Does Not Come On And The Water Does Not Heat (For 2.5 Gallon and 4 Gallon Models Only)
Please check the following:
1. Verify that the power switch on the water heater is set to the on position.
2. Rotate the thermostat dial to a hotter position.
3. Verify that your outlet has power by plugging another appliance into it and checking operation.
4. If the above steps still result in the red power light not turning on; Unplug the unit from the outlet, remove the front cover, and look for the high limit reset button that is located on the thermostat.
Push the button with a pointed object;
a. If it clicks, then the high limit was tripped and preventing power from flowing through the thermostat. Replace the cover, plug the product back into the outlet, ensure that the power switch is turned on, rotate the thermostat dial to a hotter setting, and the red light should turn on.
b. If the button was not tripped, and the power switch was on, the thermostat dial was set to a higher temperature setting, and you do have correct voltage at the power outlet, then you may need to replace the thermostat.
For further details, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page
The Red Light Does Not Come On And The Water Does Not Heat (For 7 Gallon Models Only)
Please check the following:
1. Verify that the power switch on the water heater is set to the on position.
2. Rotate the thermostat dial to a hotter position.
3. Verify that the correct circuit breaker in your breaker panel is flipped to the On position and has not tripped.
4. A qualified contractor who is familiar with working safely on live electrical equipment should ensure that the water heater has been wired correctly to the breaker and has correct voltage feeding into the thermostat.
5. If the above steps still result in the red power light not turning on; Flip the correct circuit breaker in your circuit panel to the Off position, remove the water heater's front cover, and look for the high limit reset button that is located on the thermostat.
Push the button with a pointed object;
a. If it clicks, then the high limit was tripped and preventing power from flowing through the thermostat. Replace the cover, turn the correct circuit breaker back On, ensure that the power switch is turned on, rotate the thermostat dial to a hotter setting, and the red light should turn on.
b. If the button was not tripped, and the power switch was on, the thermostat dial was set to a higher temperature setting, and you do have correct voltage from the breaker to the water heater, then you may need to replace the thermostat.
For further details, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page
The Water Is Brown or Orange
If you notice that the hot water coming from the water heater is brown or orange in color, then this could be an indication that the anode rod inside the product is depleted and the tank itself is now corroding.
Please refer to the manual that came with the product on how to check the anode rod. If it is heavily pitted or depleted it must be replaced immediately to prevent the tank corrosion from resulting in permanent damage and a leak.
Damage caused to the product, and any subsequent property damage, resulting from not following the required anode rod maintenance according to the product manual is not covered under warranty.
For instructions on how to check the anode rod, please refer to this service bulletin or see video below.
My Water Has A Smell, Similar To Eggs
If you notice an unusual egg-like odor to the hot water that is coming from the water heater, this could indicate a reaction between the properties in your water supply and the magnesium anode rod inside the water heater. The odor can be more prominent in properties that are using softened water.
This is not a condition that is caused by the product itself, it is instead a property of the water supply.
You may be advised by some contractors to just remove the anode rod, but we recommend against that as it could result in permanent water damage to the product, and property, that would not be covered under warranty.
There Is Water Leaking From the Water Heater
Where does the water appear to be leaking from?
1. It is coming from where the T&P valve is screwed into the water heater.
a. Isolate the product from the power supply (depending on your exact model, either unplug the water heater from the outlet or turn off the circuit breaker)
b. Turn off the water supply to the water heater.
c. Drain the stored water.
d. Check that the valve has been screwed in and seated correctly.
e. If you notice that the female threads in the tank are corroded then this could be an indication that the anode rod has depleted and the water heater is now being attacked by water corrosion. If this is the case, then the water heater may need to be replaced as once water damage has occurred is it typically not repairable.
2. It is coming from the oval front cover.
a. Isolate the product from the power supply (depending on your exact model, either unplug the water heater from the outlet or turn off the circuit breaker).
b. Turn off the water supply to the water heater.
c. Drain the stored water.
d. Remove the front cover.
e. Remove the heating element and inspect the tank and the opening. If it is corroded then this could be an indication that the anode rod has depleted and the water heater is now being attacked by water corrosion. If this is the case, then the water heater may need to be replaced as once water damage has occurred is it typically not repairable.
f. If the metal of the tank is clean and not corroded, inspect the gasket that sits between the heating element and the tank. If the gasket is damaged it will need to be replaced.
g. If the gasket is undamaged (or you have the new gasket ready) reassemble the gasket and heating element, and ensure that the four bolts are secured down firmly and evenly. Refill the tank to test if the leak is now resolved.
3. It is coming from the bottom, sides, or rear of the water heater. This could be an indication that the anode rod has depleted and the water heater is now being attacked by water corrosion. If this is the case then the water heater may need to be replaced, as once water damage has occurred it is not repairable.
For further details, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
Important
Damage caused to the product, and any subsequent property damage, resulting from not following the required anode rod maintenance according to the product manual is not covered under warranty.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page
Water Starts Off Hot And Then Fades To Cold
It is important to remember that this product is a water storage tank, and the duration of hot water that you will receive will depend on:
1. The model of water heater that you have installed (we have three product sizes available: 2.5 gallons, 4 gallons, and 7 gallons).
2. The flow rate of the hot water fixture that the water heater is supplying. Higher flow rates will result in a shorter duration of hot water available to you for each use.
3. When the hot water is depleted it will require approximately 20 minutes to get back up to temperature inside the water heater tank. This recovery time will vary based on the temperature of your cold water supply and the setting that you have selected on the thermostat dial.
I Want To Install The Water Heater Laying On Its Back. Can It Be Installed This Way?
No, the water heater must NOT be installed on its back. Attempting to orient the product on its back may cause damage to the water heater and even discharge of the relief valve.
For correct product orientation and installation details, please refer to the manual that came supplied with the product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page
I Want To Install The Water Heater Laying On Its Side. Can It Be Installed This Way?
Tronic 3000T ES2.5 & ES4 Models / GL2.5 & GL4 Models
No.
These models MUST be installed in a vertical position with the plumbing connections and T&P valve situated at the top. Attempting to orient the product any other way may cause damage to the water heater and/or discharge of the relief valve which could damage the property with water.
For correct product orientation and installation details, please refer to the manual that came supplied with the product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page
Tronic 3000T ES8 / GL6+ & GL8 Models
Yes.
These models can be installed in either a vertical position (with the plumbing connections and T&P valve at the top), or laying on their right side (with the plumbing connections facing right).
To install the product like this, the installer will need to make sure that the T&P valve is relocated from its original position in between the plumbing connections and moved to the optional plugged location so that it will ultimately be pointing upwards. Failure to move the T&P valve will result in it discharging water into the property.
For full directions of how to relocate the T&P valve, and for all other correct orientation and installation details, please refer to the manual that came supplied with the product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page
What Are The Electrical Specifications And Requirements?
All Models - Electrical Specifications
110/120VAC (single phase) - 1,440W - 12A.
Electrical Installation Requirements
Tronic 3000T ES2.5 & ES4 Models / GL2.5 & GL4 Models
These models come pre-installed with a grounded power cord and can be plugged into a grounded power receptacle. The installer must ensure that the circuit breaker and circuit wiring is sized correctly to accommodate the power requirements of the water heater and any other equipment that may use the same circuit.
Tronic 3000T ES8 / GL6+ & GL8 Models
These models MUST be hard-wired directly to a dedicated 20A circuit breaker using 12gauge wire (as per National Electric Code). The installer MUST NOT install a power cord and plug!
For full specifications and installation requirements, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page
Which Model Size Do I Need For An Under-Sink Application?
If it's a sink that is used often and you are likely to get through the stored hot water quickly, then go for the biggest size that will fit in the space available (remember that you will need to accommodate your plumbing and electrical connections too!).
If it's a sink that is used infrequently, then a smaller model may suit your needs.
Here are the physical dimensions of the models, and the amount of water that they can store;
Tronic 3000T ES2.5 / GL2.5: 13.75in(H) x 13.75in(W) x 10.75in (D) - 2.7 gallons.
Tronic 3000T ES4 / GL4: 13.75in(H) x 13.75in(W) x 13.5in (D) - 4 gallons.
Tronic 3000T ES8 / GL8 (Vertical Installation): 17.6in(H) x 17.6in(W) x 14.5in (D) - 7 gallons.
Tronic 3000T ES8 / GL8 (Horizontal Installation): 17.6in(H) x 17.6in(W) x 14.5in (D) - 5.1 gallons.
For full specifications and installation requirements, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page
Do I Need To Connect The Discharge Of The T&P Relief Valve To Plumbing?
No, the T&P valve does not need to be connected to plumbing.
The T&P valve's discharge outlet must be oriented so that any discharged water exits within 6in of the structural floor, or at any distance below the floor, and not come into contact with live electrical equipment.
Piping may be used to achieve this requirement, as long as the piping size is not reduced down in diameter from the opening size of the valve.
For further details, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page
Should The Quality Of The Water That Is Supplied To The Water Heater Be Considered?
Yes.
The water heater must be supplied with potable water that is free from particulates, corrosive chemicals, and other contaminants, and must meet the criteria shown on Table 4 of this service bulletin (PDF 0.1 MB)
Important
Damage to the water heater, and any subsequent damage to the property, as a result of supplying the product with water that is outside of the required criteria is not covered under warranty.
Can I Install This Product In-Line With The Hot Water Plumbing From The Home's Main Water Heater?
Yes.
If you are experiencing long delays with the hot water from your main water heater reaching a distant point of use, then you can install one of our electric mini-tank water heaters close to that point of use.
Instead of supplying the mini-tank water heater with cold water, simply supply it with hot water from the main water heater and then plumb the mini-tank's hot water outlet to the point of use' hot water fixture.
The point of use will now have a small amount of hot water close by to initially draw from, while the mini-tank's stored hot water then gets replenished from the main hot water heater.
This is called a "booster" application.
Tronic 4000C (All Models) Tankless Water Heaters
What are the electrical installation requirements for this product?
TR4000C-3 Model;
120vac - 1x 30A Single Pole Breaker - 10AWG (minimum) Wire Size.
TR4000C-6 Model;
240vac - 1x 30A Double Pole Breaker - 10AWG (minimum) Wire Size.
TR4000C-8 Model;
240vac - 1x 40A Double Pole Breaker - 8AWG (minimum) Wire Size.
TR4000C-10 Model;
240vac - 1x 50A Double Pole Breaker - 6AWG (minimum) Wire Size.
For further details and the parts list, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page.
Can I install an electrical plug and cord on the water heater and power it from a power outlet?
No.
All Bosch TR4000C water heaters are designed and approved to be hard-wired only.
Note: If the water heater is installed in a location that is out of the sight of the breaker panel that is supplying it with power, a circuit breaker lockout or additional local means of disconnection for all non-grounded conductors must be provided that is within sight of the appliance. (REF NEC 422.31).
For full installation requirements, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page.
Can I install this water heater in any other orientation than the plumbing connections facing down?
No.
The Bosch TR4000C water heaters MUST be installed with the plumbing connection facing down to the floor.
Any other orientation may result in either poor operation or damage to the product.
Can I use this water heater as a booster to my main water heating source?
No. Bosch TR4000C water heaters are designed and approved to be supplied with unheated potable water only. If you are in need of a small water heater that can be used in a booster application, please take a look at our Bosch Tronic 3000T range of mini-tank electric water heaters instead.
Are there any important plumbing installation topics that should be considered?
Yes.
- We highly recommend that you use water shut-off valves when installing the water heater. This can help with adjusting the maximum water flow rate through the water heater if you need to increase the temperature of the hot water that it produces.
- Never use pipe dope to seal the water connections, as it can lead to damage to the flow switch and internal heating elements. Use only teflon tape to seal the pipe connections.
- Try to keep the piping as short as possible between the water heater and the hot water fixture that it is supplying. This will minimize the wait time for hot water to arrive at the faucet.
- The installer must use piping that can withstand pressure up to 116psi.
- Never supply this water heater with pre-heated water. It must be supplied with unheated potable water only.
- The water heater comes with a check valve preinstalled on the cold water connection fitting. This valve prevents the inlet water pressure from exceeding 123psi and also prevents water backflow in the event of a water supply outage. Do not remove or alter this valve! In accordance with National Plumbing Code, the installer must add a drainage line to the port on the check valve.
- It is the responsibility of the installer to ensure that a water heater is installed in a location and manner that will not result in damage to property in the event of a water leak. National Plumbing Code requires the installation of a drain pan for all water heater installations.
For full installation requirements, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page.
Is there a document available that provides detailed troubleshooting guidance?
There is indeed!
We have created a digital document that provides full troubleshooting instructions for the Tronic 4000C electric water heaters, and you can download it via this link: Tronic 4000C Troubleshooting Guide (PDF 2.3 MB)
Note: The Tronic 4000C water heaters are 120v and 240v products (depending on specific model) and therefore only a licensed professional who is qualified to work on such equipment should do so.
If you need a contractor who is familiar with Bosch Home Comfort products, please visit our Bosch Home Comfort Pro search page here.
The water heater does not activate when I open the hot water fixture.
These are the most common causes for failure to activate with water flow:
- No power. Please check that the electrical installation is correct for the specific model and that adequate power is being supplied to the water heater.
- Reversed plumbing connections to the water heater. Make sure that the cold water supply pipe is connected to the left fitting at the bottom of the water heater, and the hot outlet pipe is connected to the fitting on the right. This is different to our older models of point of use electric water heaters, and could be missed by the installer if the TR4000C is replacing an existing older model.
- Water flow rate. Each model requires a certain minimum GPM (gallons per minute) water flow through it to activate the internal flow sensor. If you have verified that correct power is being supplied to the water heater then it may be the case that your hot water fixture is only allowing a flow rate that is below the minimum needed to activate the water heater. If you can speed the water up to be above the activation rate, the water heater should turn on.
- Clogged inlet water filter. To protect the water heater from particulates in the water supply, there is a small mesh water filter located up inside the cold water inlet fitting. If this becomes clogged with debris from the water supply it could impede flow through the water heater and prevent it from activating. Refer to your product manual on how to remove and check the filter.
- The internal thermal cutout safety devices may have tripped. Your water heater contains two safety devices that sense the temperature of the heating coil, and if an overheating condition occurs these device will trip and prevent he water heater from activating.
- One of the thermal cutout switches is automatic, and will reset itself once the overheat condition has passed.
- The other thermal cutout switch is manual and requires the user to reset it physically.
For details regarding minimum required water flow rates and other important information, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page.
The water heater turns on when I use hot water, but the temperature seems too low.
The temperature of the hot water that it produces will be affected by:
- The model that you have installed. We offer a range of point of use electric tankless water heaters, and the heating capacity will vary between the models.
- The temperature setting that you have selected. Use the dial on the front of the water heater to adjust the power setting.
- The flow rate of the hot water fixture that you are feeding from the water heater. In a tankless water heater the cold supply water is heated as it flows through the heating coil, and so the faster the water moves the less heat energy that it will be able to absorb from the heating elements.
If you have selected the highest available temperature setting but the output water temperature is still too low for you, then you will need to reduce the water flow rate to allow more heat energy to get into the water before it leaves the water heater. If your water flow needs are too high for the model that you have installed, you may need to consider a model that has a higher heating capacity.
- Supply voltage. Each model has an electrical installation requirement that must be met, and if the supply voltage is less than the model requires this can result in a reduced heating capacity.
Example: The Bosch TR4000C-8 is rated for 240vac. It will work down to 208vac but will lose approximately 25% of its ability to heat the water.
- The time of year and your location. The temperature of the water entering your home can vary drastically through the year based on the season and your specific location. When the outside temperature drops, so will the temperature of the water entering your home.
Colder supply water requires more energy to heat it up to your desired got water temperature, and you may find that you will need to slow down the water's flow rate to allow it to take on more heat energy as it passes through the water heater.
For full performance capabilities and further information on adjusting the temperature, please refer to your product manual. If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page.
How can I adjust the temperature of the hot water?
The dial that is located on the front of the water heater allows you to choose the following power settings.
OFF - LOW - MED - HIGH
Rotate the dial to the setting that gives you the water temperature that you're looking for.
Note: If you have selected the highest temperature setting for your water heater, and your voltage supply is correct for that model, then you will need to slow the water flow rate down in order to gain a higher output water temperature.
For full performance capabilities and further information on adjusting the temperature, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page.
Water is leaking from the water heater, what can I do?
In the event of a water leak:
- The very first thing that you must do is Isolate the water heater from the power supply by turning off the correct circuit breaker in your breaker panel.
- Next, turn off the water supply to the water heater. If the water is leaking from inside the water heater, skip to Step 4.
- If the water is leaking from where plumbing is connected to the water heater.
1. Remove the pipe and inspect it for damage.
2. Inspect the water connection nipples on the water heater for damage.
3. If no damage is evident, wipe clean all water connection surfaces and reconnect the piping to the water heater. If a threaded connection was used, reapply teflon tape to the water heater's threaded connections prior to screwing the pipe fitting back on.
4. Once the plumbing is reconnected, open up water supply to the water heater and check that the leak has stopped.
- If the water is leaking from where the electrical element assembly is inserted into the left-side of the heating cylinder:
1. Drain the water heater.
2. Take a photo of the electrical wiring connections to the heating elements for use as a reinstallation reference, and then unplug the connections from the element terminals.
3. Carefully use a pipe wrench to unscrew the element retention cap from the left-side of the heating cylinder.
4. Slide out the heating element assembly.
5. Inspect the o-ring for damage. If damage is found, the o-ring must be replaced with a new one before the water heater can be reassembled.
- If the water is leaking from damage to the heating cylinder:
The water heater must be replaced.
Note: Do not turn the electrical supply to the water back on until any water leaking has been rectified. For further details and the parts list, please refer to your product manual. If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page.
Tronic 6000C, WH17/WH27, RP17PT/RP27PT, and AE115/AE125 Tankless Water Heaters
It seems to take a long time to get hot water at my fixtures. Is this normal?
This is a perception that is most commonly noted by owners that have recently switched to a combi-boiler or a tankless water heater after moving away from using a heated storage tank to produce and store Domestic Hot Water (DHW).
Here's why:
Heated Storage Tanks - The water contained in such a water heater is being heated throughout the day and night, regardless of whether you are using it or not.
The benefit of course, is that the stored water is already hot and ready for use at any time.
However, that means that energy is being used just to keep a large supply of hot water on standby. You are paying to heat and store water all the time, just to use it sporadically through the day.
In addition to the ongoing energy use, you will also only be able to use as much hot water as the tank can store, and once the hot water is depleted you will need to wait until the fresh cold water has been heated up and ready to use.
Combi-Boilers & Tankless Water Heaters - These types of water heating products only produce hot water when the owner opens a hot fixture somewhere in the home.
This means that no hot water is stored in the product, and so when you open a fixture in the home the water heater will ignite and then start heating the cold water that is flowing through its heat exchanger now. That does mean that there is a small delay in the delivery of hot water to the fixture, and if you previously used a heated storage tank you may notice it.
The benefits though, are significant:
- You are only paying for energy while the product is activated and producing hot water on-demand. When you close the hot water fixture, the product is going to shut down and go back into standby mode.
- You are not limited to a fixed amount of hot water that will deplete and then run cold. As long as you have a hot water fixture open and the product has activated, you will have endless hot water from that fixture until you close it.
Plumbing Distance:
Regardless of whether you are using a heated storage tank, a combi-boiler, or a tankless water heater to produce your home's hot water, there is another delay that must be recognized.
There will still be a delay in the delivery of hot water as the plumbing between the product and the fixtures will contain cold water that will need to be pushed ahead of the hot water that's heading toward the open fixture.
Simply put: the longer the run of plumbing, the longer it will take for the hot water to arrive where it's needed.
Potential Solutions
For the majority of users, the small delay in hot water being produced and then reaching their hot fixtures is of no concern. It is a normal dynamic of hot water that is produced by a combi-boiler or a tankless water heater, and the owner is instead focused on enjoying the lower energy costs!
- If you have a fixture that is particularly far away from the water heating product, and it's one that you frequently use and the delay is problematic for you, then you could use an electric mini-tank water heater as booster. These water heaters are typically 120v and should be installed close to the distant hot fixture and in-line between the main water heating product and the distant fixture. For further details regarding our family of Tronic 3000T electric mini-tank water heaters, please visit this page.
- If you would prefer to reduce the wait time for hot water at all hot fixtures in the home, then we recommend consulting a licensed plumber to discuss the options for installing a recirculating hot water plumbing arrangement. Please visit this page to search for a contractor in your area. Typically one loop of hot water plumbing will leave the water heating product, travel around the home, and then back to the product. Short plumbing lines to each hot water fixture will then branch off the main loop. A pump and a timer will be used to circulate the water around that loop occasionally, which will also activate the combi-boiler or tankless water heater, and leave hot water in the plumbing loop around the home. The next time you open a hot water fixture you will have less of a wait time for cold water to flush through as it is pre-heated from the last time that the recirculation pump ran.
Important! Before deciding to install a recirculation loop, be certain that your combi-boiler or tankless water heater can safely be installed in such an application. Some models are designed to be supplied with cold water only and may be damaged if supplied with heated water that is returning from a circulation loop. Consult the literature that came supplied with your product. If you no longer have the printed literature that came supplied with your product, an electronic copy can be downloaded from our manuals download page.
Water is leaking from one of the heating canisters inside the water heater, can it be fixed?
That will depend on the age of the water heater, and the exact location of the water leak, see below:
Models that contain two or three canisters that are made from copper:
- 1. The canisters are non-replaceable, and the water heater will need to be replaced.
Models that contain two or three black plastic canisters with brass heating assemblies mounted on top of them:
- 1. If the water is leaking from on top of a brass element assembly, or from where a heating element enters the brass assembly; The brass assembly must be replaced.
- 2. If the water is leaking from the joint between the black plastic canister and the brass assembly; There is an o-ring that seals the joint, and this may have been compromised. If that is the case, the o-ring will need to be replaced.
- 3. If the water is leaking from a hole or a crack in the black plastic canister; The canister will need to be replaced.
For part numbers of heating elements, o-rings, and black canisters, please either download the appropriate parts list from this page, or visit our online parts search tools located here
The red light does not come on when I open a hot water fixture.
This is a 240vac water heater, and it is strongly recommended that only qualified professionals who are familiar with working with live voltage carry out any work that requires removing the front cover of the water heater.
These are the most common causes for failure to activate with water flow:
- 1. No power. Check that the electrical installation is correct for the specific model and that adequate power is being supplied to the water heater. Please refer to the product manual for further details.
- 2. Water flow rate. Each model requires a certain minimum GPM (gallons per minute) water flow through it to activate the internal flow switch. If you have verified that correct power is being supplied to the water heater then it may be the case that your hot water fixture is only allowing a flow rate that is below the minimum needed to activate the water heater. If you can speed the water up to be above the activation rate, the water heater should turn on. Please refer to the product manual for further details.
- 3. Water supply pressure. If your property is on a city water supply, this product requires a minimum of 30psi to operate correctly. If you are on a well, the minimum pressure range required is 30psi - 50psi.
- 4. Dirty inlet water filter. To protect the water heater from particles in the water supply, there is a small mesh water filter located up inside the cold water inlet fitting. Refer to your product manual on how to remove and check the filter.
- 5. Stuck flow transducer. This is a component inside the water heater that measures the flow rate of the water that is running through the water heater and uses that information to adjust the power to the heating elements. The flow transducer is a clear plastic tube that is located just above the point where the cold water connection enters the metal water heater chassis.
As the plastic is clear you should be able to see the impeller inside spinning when water is flowing (shining a flashlight on it may help). If the impeller does not start and stop when water flow starts and stops then the water heater will not turn on when water is flowing.
Please refer to the product manual for further details.
- 6. Reversed plumbing connection. This seems too obvious, but our technical support teams frequently run into this when assisting customers! If this is a new installation then make absolutely certain that the cold water supply pipe is connected to the water heater's cold water inlet connection and not the hot outlet connection.
- 7. Plumbing Crossover. Mixing valves in the home's plumbing (shower valves, single-handed faucets, washing machine valves) can fail internally and result in cold water bleeding over into the hot water lines, and this can affect the operation of a tankless water heater. Please refer to the product manual for details on how to test for this condition.
We have a large number of helpful troubleshooting Service Bulletins that may help to solve a problem. Please visit this page to check them out
The red light comes on when I open a hot water fixture, but the water either does not seem to be hot enough or it fluctuates.
This is a 240vac water heater, and it is strongly recommended that only qualified professionals who are familiar with working with live voltage carry out any work that requires removing the front cover of the water heater.
If the water heater is turning on with water flow but the output water seems to be cooler than expected, these are the most common causes:
- 1. The temperature adjustment knob is set too low. The location of the knob is different depending on the version that you have installed:
- a. If the water heater has a display screen on the front panel, the temperature control knob is located just below the screen.
- b. For models that have no display screen, the temperature knob is located on the underside of the water heater next to the cold water inlet plumbing connection.
- 2. One or more thermal cutouts may have tripped. Each of the heating modules inside the water heater has a thermal cutout switch mounted on top of it which senses the temperature of the brass heating element assembly below it. If the assembly begins to overheat the thermal cutout will trip and electrical power will stop flowing to the heating elements. Please refer to the product manual for the reset procedure.
- 3. Water flow rate. While a flow rate that is too low will result in the water heater not activating when water is flowing, a flow rate that is too high will result in the water heater not being able to heat the water to the temperature that you are looking for. Please refer to the product manual for further details.
- 4. Water supply pressure. If your property is on a city water supply, this product requires a minimum of 30psi to operate correctly. If you are on a well, the minimum pressure range required is 30psi - 50psi.
- 5. Plumbing Crossover. Mixing valves in the home's plumbing (shower valves, single-handed faucets, washing machine valves) can fail internally and result in cold water bleeding over into the hot water lines, and this can affect the operation of a tankless water heater. Please refer to the product manual for details on how to test for this condition.
- 6. Failed heating element. Each of the two (or three, depending on specific model) heating canisters contain multiple electrical heating elements. If one or more of these fail, then the temperature of the output hot water could be lower than expected.
- 7. Low Supply Voltage. This water heater is designed to achieve maximum heating performance when supplied with 240vac. While it will still operate at lower supply voltage (down to 208vac), the ability to heat the water will be compromised.
- 8. Loose wire. It may be the case that a wire connection was knocked loose, or even disconnected, to one or more of the internal components or circuit boards during installation:
- a. Ensure that ALL circuit breakers that supply the water heater are turned off! Do NOT remove the front cover without first isolating all power supplies to the product.
- b. Remove the front cover.
- c. Examine all internal wiring and connectors. If any are loose or unplugged from their terminal, ensure that they are firmly plugged back in.
- d. Replace the front cover, turn the circuit breakers back on, open a hot water faucet and check to see if the temperature issue is now resolved.
We have a large number of helpful troubleshooting Service Bulletins that may help to solve a problem. Please visit this page to check them out
The water is too hot at my fixtures, what can I do?
These are the most common causes of the water being too hot:
1. The temperature control knob is set too high. The location of the knob is different depending on the version that you have installed:
a. If the water heater has a display screen on the front panel, the temperature control knob is located just below the screen.
b. For models that have no display screen, the temperature knob is located on the underside of the water heater next to the cold water inlet plumbing connection.
2. Dirty inlet water filter. To protect the water heater from particles in the water supply, there is a small mesh water filter located up inside the cold water inlet fitting. Refer to your product manual on how to remove and check the filter.
3. One or more heating elements defective. Please refer to the product manual for further details and testing procedure (this must be carried out by a qualified person who in familiar with working with electrical equipment).
Can I install an electrical plug and cord on the water heater and power it from a power outlet?
No, this water heater is designed and approved to be hard-wired only.
Note: If the water heater is installed in a location that is out of the sight of the breaker panel that is supplying it with power, a circuit breaker lockout or additional local means of disconnection for all non-grounded conductors must be provided that is within sight of the appliance. (REF NEC 422.31).
Can this water heater accept recirculated water back to the inlet?
No, this water heater is designed and approved to be supplied with unheated potable water only.
Are there any plumbing topics that should be considered?
Yes:
- 1. We highly recommend that you use water shut-off valves when installing the water heater. This can help with adjusting the maximum water flow rate through the water heater if you need to increase the temperature of the hot water that it produces, and also make servicing the product easier.
- 2. Never use pipe dope to seal the water connections, as it can lead to damage to the flow switch and internal heating elements. Only use teflon tape.
- 3. PEX or PVC piping must not be used within 3ft of the water heater. We recommend that you use rigid copper pipe or stainless steel flexible pipe for the plumbing connections.
For full installation details, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from our website*.
*There are different versions of the manuals depending on the production date of the product.
To help direct you to the correct manuals download page, please check the serial# label on the underside of your water heater (older models will have a serial# that begins with two numbers, and newer models will have a serial# that begins with three numbers) and select the appropriate link below;
Powerstream RP17P/RP27P & Powerstar AE115/AE125 - Serial# "61" to "107"; LINK
Tronic 5000C WH17/WH27 - Serial# "108" to "553"; LINK
Tronic 6000C WH17/WH27 - Serial# "554" and higher; LINK COMING SOON
Tronic 5000C WH36 - All serial numbers; LINK
What are the electrical installation requirements for this water heater?
Powerstream RP17P, Powerstar AE115, Tronic 5000C WH17, and Tronic 6000C WH17 Models;
- • US Installations; Two 240vac 40A double-pole circuit breakers. Wire size must be in accordance with US National Electrical Code.
- • Canadian Installations; One 240vac 80A double-pole circuit breaker (requires auxiliary terminal block to be installed in the water heater - Part# "AE Canada Kit"). Wire size must be in accordance with Canadian Electrical Code (C22.1-02).
Powerstream RP27P, Powerstar AE125, Tronic 5000C WH27, and Tronic 6000C WH27 Models;
- • US Installations; Three 240vac 40A double-pole circuit breakers. Wire size must be in accordance with US National Electrical Code.
- • Canadian Installations; One 240vac 120A double-pole circuit breaker (requires auxiliary terminal block to be installed in the water heater - Part# "AE Canada Kit"). Wire size must be in accordance with Canadian Electrical Code (C22.1-02).
Tronic 5000C WH36 Model;
- • US Installations; Three 240vac 60A double-pole circuit breakers. Wire size must be in accordance with US National Electrical Code.
- • Canadian Installations; One 240vac 180A double-pole circuit breaker (requires auxiliary terminal block to be installed in the water heater - Part# "AE Canada Kit"). Wire size must be in accordance with Canadian Electrical Code (C22.1-02).
For full installation details, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from our website*.
*There are different versions of the manuals depending on the production date of the product.
To help direct you to the correct manuals download page, please check the serial# label on the underside of your water heater (older models will have a serial# that begins with two numbers, and newer models will have a serial# that begins with three numbers) and select the appropriate link below;
Powerstream RP17P/RP27P & Powerstar AE115/AE125 - Serial# "61" to "107"; LINK
Tronic 5000C WH17/WH27 - Serial# "108" to "553"; LINK
Tronic 6000C WH17/WH27 - Serial# "554" and higher; LINK COMING SOON
Tronic 5000C WH36 - All serial numbers; LINK
Tronic 6100C (All Models) Tankless Water Heaters
What are the electrical installation requirements for this water heater?
Bosch TR6100C-18 Model*
240vac - 3x 30A Double Pole Breakers - 10AWG (minimum) Wire Size.
Bosch TR6100C-27 Model
240vac - 3x 40A Double Pole Breakers - 8AWG (minimum) Wire Size.
*Important!
If you are installing a new TR6100-18 to replace an existing Bosch WH17, RP17, or AE-115, you MUST update your existing electrical installation accordingly. The WH17, RP17, and AE-115 models required 2x 40A double pole breakers while the TR6100C-18 requires 3x 30A double pole breakers. This is a requirement.
For full installation details, please refer to your product manual. If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page.
Can I install an electrical plug and cord on the water heater and power it from a power outlet?
No, this water heater is designed and approved to be hard-wired only.
Note: If the water heater is installed in a location that is out of the sight of the breaker panel that is supplying it with power, a circuit breaker lockout or additional local means of disconnection for all non-grounded conductors must be provided that is within sight of the appliance. (REF NEC 422.31).
Can I install this water heater in any other orientation than the plumbing connections facing down?
No.
The Bosch TR6100C water heaters MUST be installed with the plumbing connection facing down to the floor.
Any other orientation may result in either poor operation or damage to the product.
Can this water heater accept recirculated water back to the inlet?
No.
The Bosch TR6100C water heaters are designed and approved to be supplied with unheated potable water only.
Are there any plumbing topics that should be considered?
Yes.
- We highly recommend that you use water shut-off valves when installing the water heater. This can help with adjusting the maximum water flow rate through the water heater if you need to increase the temperature of the hot water that it produces.
- Never use pipe dope to seal the water connections, as it can lead to damage to the flow switch and internal heating elements. Use only teflon tape to seal the pipe connections.
- Try to keep the piping as short as possible between the water heater and the hot water fixture that it is supplying. This will minimize the wait time for hot water to arrive at the faucet.
- The installer must use piping that can withstand a minimum pressure of 150PSI.
- All piping within 3ft of the water heater must be rated for a minimum temperature of 185°f.
- Never supply this water heater with pre-heated water. It must be supplied with unheated potable water only.
- It is the responsibility of the installer to ensure that a water heater is installed in a location and manner that will not result in damage to property in the event of a water leak. National Plumbing Code requires the installation of a drain pan for all water heater installations.
For full installation requirements, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page.
How do I switch the temperature display between °F and °C?
This is a 240vac water heater, and it is strongly recommended that only qualified professionals who are familiar with working with live voltage carry out any work that requires removing the front cover of the water heater.
You can select between Fahrenheit and Celsius for the displayed unit of temperature by changing a DIP switch position. Here's how:
- Turn off all circuit breakers that are supplying the water heater.
- The front cover is held in place by two phillips screws located on the underside of the water heater. Remove them and retain them for when you will be reinstalling the cover later.
- Hold the bottom of the front cover and gently pull it forward to loosen it from the water heater.
- Hold the top of the front cover and gently pull it forward. The front cover will now be separated from the water heater. BE CAREFUL, if you look behind the cover you will see a cable that is connecting the rear of the display screen to the main circuit board located within the water heater. In the middle of that cable you will see a connector plug. Disconnect it, and you can now fully remove the front cover.
- Look at the rear of the display screen and you will see a green circuit board that is held to the front cover by four small phillips screws. Remove them and you can now pull the display screen's circuit board out of the front cover.
- On the front of the circuit board you will see a red switch panel with four white DIP switches on it.
- The four switches are labelled 1, 2, 3, 4. Do NOT change switches 1, 2 or 3. They MUST be left at factory settings at all time!
- The temperature unit is controlled by DIP switch 4:
- DIP switch 4 in the UP position = Fahrenheit.
- DIP switch 4 in the DOWN position = Celsius.
- When you have selected the correct temperature unit, you can now place the display circuit board back into the front cover and secure it down with the four small phillips screws that you removed in Step #5.
- Reconnect the cable from the display back into the cable from the water heater's main control board.
- Reinstall the front cover onto the water heater, not forgetting to use the two phillips screws at the bottom of the unit.
- Turn the circuit breakers back on.
For further details, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page.
I've completed the electrical installation and turned on the circuit breakers, but the display on the water heater is still off and the water heater does not operate. What should I check?
This is a 240vac water heater, and it is strongly recommended that only qualified professionals who are familiar with working with live voltage carry out any work that requires removing the front cover of the water heater.
Most commonly this problem is due to the installer inadvertently mixing up the power supplies from each circuit breaker to the applicable terminal block slots in the water heater, causing an out of phase condition.
To help with checking and correcting this, please refer to the video below.
The LED does not come on when I open a hot water fixture.
This is a 240vac water heater, and it is strongly recommended that only qualified professionals who are familiar with working with live voltage carry out any work that requires removing the front cover of the water heater.
These are the most common causes for failure to activate with water flow:
- No power. Check that the electrical installation is correct for the specific model and that adequate power is being supplied to the water heater. Please refer to the product manual for further details.
- Water flow rate. The TR6100C requires a minimum of 0.5GPM (gallons per minute) water flow through it to activate the internal flow switch. If you have verified that correct power is being supplied to the water heater then it may be the case that your hot water fixture is only allowing a flow rate that is below the minimum needed to activate the water heater. If you can speed the water up to be above the activation rate, the water heater should turn on. Please refer to the product manual for further details.
- Water supply pressure. The TR6100C requires a minimum of 7PSI water pressure to operate.
- Clogged inlet water filter. To protect the water heater from particulates in the water supply, there is a small mesh water filter located up inside the cold water inlet fitting. If this becomes clogged with debris from the water supply it could impede flow through the water heater and prevent it from activating. Refer to your product manual on how to remove and check the filter.
- Reversed plumbing connection. This seems too obvious, but our technical support teams frequently run into this when assisting customers! If this is a new installation then make absolutely certain that the cold water supply pipe is connected to the water heater's cold water inlet connection and not the hot outlet connection.
- Plumbing Crossover. Mixing valves in the home's plumbing (shower valves, single-handed faucets, washing machine valves) can fail internally and result in cold water bleeding over into the hot water lines, and this can affect the operation of a tankless water heater. Please refer to the product manual for details on how to test for this condition.
- The internal thermal cutout safety devices may have tripped. The TR6100C contains multiple thermal high-limit switches that sense the temperature of the heating canisters, and if an overheating condition occurs these devices will trip and prevent he water heater from activating by shutting off the power to the elements. For details on how to reset these safety devices, please refer to your product manual.
For further troubleshooting details, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page.
The LED comes on when I open a hot water fixture, but the water either does not seem to be hot enough or it fluctuates.
This is a 240vac water heater, and it is strongly recommended that only qualified professionals who are familiar with working with live voltage carry out any work that requires removing the front cover of the water heater. If the water heater is turning on with water flow but the output water seems to be cooler than expected, these are the most common causes:
- The temperature adjustment is set too low. You can use the buttons on the front of the water heater to adjust the desired water temperature. The available temperature range is 86°f to 125°f.
- The internal thermal cutout safety devices may have tripped. The TR6100C contains multiple thermal high-limit switches that sense the temperature of the heating canisters, and if an overheating condition occurs these devices will trip and prevent he water heater from activating by shutting off the power to the elements. For details on how to reset these safety devices, please refer to your product manual.
- The flow rate of the hot water fixture that you are feeding from the water heater. In a tankless water heater the cold supply water is heated as it flows through the heating coil, and so the faster the water moves the less heat energy that it will be able to absorb from the heating elements.
If you have selected the highest available temperature setting but the output water temperature is still too low for you, then you will need to reduce the water flow rate to allow more heat energy to get into the water before it leaves the water heater. If your water flow needs are too high for the model that you have installed, you may need to consider a model that has a higher heating capacity.
- The time of year and your location. The temperature of the water entering your home can vary drastically through the year based on the season and your specific location. When the outside temperature drops, so will the temperature of the water entering your home.
Colder supply water requires more energy to heat it up to your desired got water temperature, and you may find that you will need to slow down the water's flow rate to allow it to take on more heat energy as it passes through the water heater.
- Plumbing crossover. Mixing valves in the home's plumbing (shower valves, single-handed faucets, washing machine valves) can fail internally and result in cold water bleeding over into the hot water lines, and this can affect the operation of a tankless water heater. Please refer to the product manual for details on how to test for this condition.
- Failed heating element. Each of the two heating canisters contain multiple electrical heating elements. If one or more of these fail, then the temperature of the output hot water could be lower than expected.
- Failed Triac switch. There are three triac switches located inside the TR6100C water heaters, each of which helps to control the heating elements. If a failure of a triac switch occurs it can impact the operation of the water heater and result in water temperature issues. For details of how to test the triac switches, please refer to the product manual.
- Low Supply Voltage. This water heater is designed to achieve maximum heating performance when supplied with 240vac. While it will still operate at lower supply voltage (down to 208vac), the ability to heat the water will be compromised.
- Loose wire. It may be the case that a wire connection was knocked loose, or even disconnected, to one or more of the internal components or circuit boards during installation:
1. Ensure that ALL circuit breakers that supply the water heater are turned off! Do NOT remove the front cover without first isolating all power supplies to the product.
2. Remove the front cover.
3. Examine all internal wiring and connectors. If any are loose or unplugged from their terminal, ensure that they are firmly plugged back in.
4. Replace the front cover, turn the circuit breakers back on, open a hot water faucet and check to see if the temperature issue is now resolved.
For further troubleshooting details, please refer to your product manual. If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page.
The water is too hot at my fixtures, what can I do?
These are the most common causes of the water being too hot:
- The temperature adjustment is set too high. You can use the buttons on the front of the water heater to adjust the desired water temperature. The available temperature range is 86of to 125of.
- One or more heating elements defective. Please refer to the product manual for further details and testing procedure (this must be carried out by a qualified person who in familiar with working with electrical equipment).
- Failed Triac switch. There are three triac switches located inside the TR6100C water heaters, each of which helps to control the heating elements. If a failure of a triac switch occurs it can impact the operation of the water heater and result in water temperature issues. For details of how to test the triac switches, please refer to the product manual.
For further troubleshooting details, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page.
It seems to take a long time to get hot water at my fixtures. Is this normal?
This is a perception that is most commonly noted by owners that have recently switched to a combi-boiler or a tankless water heater after moving away from using a heated storage tank to produce, and store, Domestic Hot Water (DHW).
Here's why:
Heated Storage Tanks - The water contained in such a water heater is being heated throughout the day and night, regardless of whether you are using it or not.
The benefit of course is that the stored water is already hot and ready for use at any time.
However, that means that energy is being used just to keep a large supply of hot water on standby. You are paying to heat and store water all the time, just to use it sporadically through the day.
In addition to the ongoing energy use, you will also only be able to use as much hot water as the tank can store, and once the hot water is depleted you will need to wait until the fresh cold water has been heated up and ready to use.
Combi-Boilers & Tankless Water Heaters - These types of water heating products only produce hot water when the owner opens a hot fixture somewhere in the home.
This means that no hot water is stored in the product, and so when you open a fixture in the home the water heater will ignite and then start heating the cold water that is flowing through its heat exchanger now. That does mean that there is a small delay in the delivery of hot water to the fixture, and if you previously used a heated storage tank you may notice it.
The benefits though are significant:
- You are only paying for energy while the product is activated and producing hot water on-demand. When you close the hot water fixture, the product is going to shut down and go back into standby mode.
- You are not limited to a fixed amount of hot water that will deplete and then run cold. As long as you have a hot water fixture open and the product has activated, you will have endless hot water from that fixture until you close it.
Plumbing Distance;
Regardless of whether you are using a heated storage tank, a combi-boiler, or a tankless water heater to produce your home's hot water, there is another delay that must be recognized.
There will still be a delay in the delivery of hot water as the plumbing between the product and the fixtures will contain cold water that will need to be pushed ahead of the hot water that's heading towards the open fixture.
Simply put; The longer the run of plumbing, the longer it will take for the hot water to arrive where it's needed.
Potential Solution
For the majority of users, the small delay in hot water being produced and then reaching their hot fixtures is of no concern. It is a normal dynamic of hot water that is produced by a combi-boiler or a tankless water heater, and the owner is instead focused on enjoying the lower energy costs!
If you have a fixture that is particularly far away from the water heating product, and it's one that you frequently use and the delay is problematic for you, then you could use an electric mini-tank water heater as booster.
These water heaters are typically 120v and should be installed close to the distant hot fixture and in-line between the main water heating product and the distant fixture.
For further details regarding our family of Tronic 3000T electric mini-tank water heaters, please visit this page.
Water is leaking from one of the heating canisters inside the water heater. Can it be fixed?
In the event of a water leak:
- The very first thing that you must do is Isolate the water heater from the power supply by turning off the correct circuit breaker in your breaker panel.
- Next, turn off the water supply to the water heater. If the water is leaking from inside the water heater, skip to Step 4.
- If the water is leaking from where plumbing is connected to the water heater:
1. Inspect the water connection nipples on the water heater for damage.
2. Remove the pipe and inspect it for damage.
3. If no damage is evident, wipe clean all water connection surfaces and reconnect the piping to the water heater. If a threaded connection was used, reapply teflon tape to the water heater's threaded connections prior to screwing the pipe fitting back on.
4. Once the plumbing is reconnected, open up water supply to the water heater and check that the leak has stopped.
- If the water is leaking from where an electrical element assembly is inserted into the bottom of an heating cylinder:
1. Drain the water heater.
2. Take a photo of the electrical wiring connections to the heating elements for use as a reinstallation reference, and then unscrew the wire connections from the element terminals.
3. Carefully use a pipe wrench to unscrew the element retention cap from the heating cylinder.
4. Slide out the heating element assembly.
5. Inspect the o-ring for damage. If damage is found, the o-ring must be replaced with a new one before the water heater can be reassembled.
- If the water is leaking from damage to the heating cylinder:
The water heater must be replaced.
Note: Do not turn the electrical supply to the water back on until any water leaking has been rectified.
For further details and the parts list, please refer to your product manual.
If you no longer have the manual, you can download a copy from this page.
Tronic 5000T (All Models) Storage Tank Water Heaters
What is the physical size and water storage capacity of the Tronic 5000T?
To offer the customer a wide choice of sizes and capacity, there are several models available in the Tronic 5000T product family.
Please see below for their physical dimensions of the tank body (Height x Diameter) and storage capacity:
- ES30M: 48in(H) x 18.25in(D) - 30 gallons
- ES40M: 49in(H) x 20.25in(D) - 40 gallons
- ES50M: 50.75in(H) x 22.25in(D) - 50 gallons
- ES40T: 63.5in(H) x 18.25in(D) - 40 gallons
- ES50T: 61.75in(H) x 20.25in(D) - 50 gallons
- ES40LB: 36.5in(H) x 24.25in(D) - 40 gallons
- ES50LB: 36.5in(H) x 26.25in(D) - 46 gallons
For full details, product information, and literature download links, please visit the product page.
What are the electrical specifications and requirements of the Tronic 5000T?
All Tronic 5000T models share the same electrical specifications and requirements:
- Supply Voltage; 240VAC (single phase)
- Maximum Power Consumption; 4,500W
- Recommended Circuit Breaker Size; 25A double pole
- Supply Wire Size; 10AWG
For full specifications and installation requirements, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page.
Should the quality of the water that is supplied to the water heater be considered?
As with all water heating equipment, it is important to ensure that it is being supplied with water with a chemistry that meets the requirements of the product.
The Tronic 5000T water heater must be supplied with potable water that is free from particulates, corrosive chemicals, and other contaminants, and must meet the following criteria;
- pH Level; Between 6.5 and 8.5
- Hardness; Between 5 grains/gallon (85mg/L) and 7 grains/gallon (120 mg/L)
- Chloride Concentration; Must not exceed 100ppm (mg/L)
- Total Dissolved Solids (TDS); Must be less than 500 ppm (mg/L)
If the chemistry of the water supply is outside of the above requirements, we recommend that you work with a water treatment company on identifying the cause and solution. Failure to do so may result in damage and premature failure of the water heater and its components, and will not be covered under warranty.
For full specifications and installation requirements, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page.
My hot water has a sulphur smell, similar to eggs. What can cause that?
If you notice an unusual egg-like odor to the hot water that is coming from the water heater, this could indicate a reaction between the chemistry of your water supply and the standard magnesium anode rods inside the water heater (the odor can be more prominent in properties that are using softened water).
This is not a condition that is caused by the product itself, it is instead a property of the water supply.
If you are experiencing this odor, then the ideal solution is to utilize a water testing and treatment company to assess the water chemistry in your home and address it as needed.
However, as an alternative solution you can purchase our aluminum anode rod kit (part# 7738007364) and use it to replace the standard magnesium anode rods that came with the water heater.
For directions on how to replace the anode rods, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page.
I want to adjust the temperature of the hot water that is produced by the water heater. How do I do this?
Safety Notice - These water heater models are 240v products, proceed only if you are qualified to safely work on such equipment.
If you are in need of a qualified service person in your area, please use this contractor search page.
Scald Hazard Warning
Hot water can produce first degree burns within:
- Less than 5 seconds at 140°f
- Approx. 30 seconds at 130°f
- 90 seconds to 2 minutes at 125°f
Dishwasher Tip
Most dishwashers require a hot water temperature that is within the range of 120°f to 140°f, please consult the manufacturer of your dishwasher for their specific temperature recommendation. Please heed the Scald Hazard Warning above though!
Temperature Adjustment Steps
There are two electrical heating elements in all Tronic 5000T models, each of which is controlled by its own independent thermostat. To adjust the water temperature, please do the following:
- Ensure that the power supply to the water heater is turned OFF at your electrical service panel. If you do not know how to do this, stop here and seek a qualified professional!
- Remove both the upper and lower thermostat cover panels.
- Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to set each of the thermostat’s dial pointers to the desired temperature. Ensure that you have selected the same temperature on both of the thermostats!
- Replace the two thermostat covers.
- Turn the power to the water heater back ON at your electrical service panel.
- Remember that some time will be needed for the temperature of the stored water to adjust to the new thermostat settings.
The water starts off hot and then fades to cold over time. What could be the problem?
It is important to remember that this product is a water storage tank, and the duration of hot water that you will receive depends on both the capacity of the model that you have installed and the flow rate of the hot water fixture that the water heater is supplying.
Higher flow rate fixtures (and multiple simultaneous open fixtures) will result in a shorter duration of hot water available to you for each use.
In addition, when the hot water is depleted it will require a recovery time to get back up to temperature inside the water heater tank. This recovery time will vary based on the temperature of your cold water supply and the temperature setting that you have selected on the thermostats.
For further details, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page.
Do I need to connect the discharge of the T&P relief valve to plumbing?
No, the T&P valve does not need to be connected to plumbing.
The T&P valve's discharge outlet must be oriented so that any discharged water exits within 6 in of the structural floor, or at any distance below the floor, and not come into contact with live electrical equipment.
Piping may be used to achieve this requirement, as long as the piping size is not reduced down in diameter from the opening size of the valve.
For further details, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page.
What is an anode rod, and why do they need to be regularly checked/replaced?
Anode rods are replaceable components inside most water storage tanks, including our electric storage water heating products, and their purpose is to sacrifice themselves over time to protect the water tank itself from corrosion.
In order to prevent the metal components of the tank from corroding, it is important to check the condition of the anode rods regularly.
As the corrosive properties of water can vary from location to location, the frequency of when you should check the condition of the anode rods differs too. We recommend the first check be carried out six months after installation and then annually going forward, but in locations where the water chemistry is causing the anode rods to deplete faster, check them more frequently.
If the inspection reveals that the anode rods have depleted to less than 1/2in in diameter, are pitted, or are coated in scale, they must be replaced immediately (see list below for part numbers). Failure to do so can result in premature failure of the water heater, which will not be covered under warranty.
Anode rod part numbers:
The Tronic 5000T storage water heaters each come with two anode rods installed:
- One is built-in to the hot water outlet connection fitting and is used universally across all Tronic 5000T models - Part# 7738007363.
- The other is a standalone anode rod, and the part# depends on the specific model of Tronic 5000T:
ES30M/ES40M/ES50M: Part# 7738007349.
ES40T/ES50T: Part# 7738007350.
ES40LB/ES50LB: Part# 7738007351.
For directions on where to find the anode rods and how to check them, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product. If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page.
The water coming out of my hot fixtures is brown or orange. What can cause that?
If you notice that the hot water coming from the water heater is brown or orange in color, then this could be an indication that one, or both, of the anode rods inside the product are depleting and the tank itself is now corroding.
If the inspection reveals that the anode rods have depleted to less than 1/2in in diameter, are pitted, or are coated in scale, they must be replaced immediately (see list below for part numbers). Failure to do so can result in premature failure of the water heater, which will not be covered under warranty.
Anode rod part numbers:
The Tronic 5000T storage water heaters each come with two anode rods installed:
- One is built-in to the hot water outlet connection fitting and is used universally across all Tronic 5000T models - Part# 7738007363.
- The other is a standalone anode rod, and the part# depends on the specific model of Tronic 5000T:
ES30M/ES40M/ES50M: Part# 7738007349.
ES40T/ES50T: Part# 7738007350.
ES40LB/ES50LB: Part# 7738007351.
For directions on where to find the anode rods and how to check them, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product. If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page.
Is there any regular maintenance that needs to be carried out?
Safety Notice - These water heater models are 240v products, and only professionals who are qualified to work on such electrical equipment should do so. If you are in need of a qualified service person in your area, please use this contractor search page.
The maintenance steps below, and how to conduct them, are covered in the manual that came with your water heater and must be referred to prior to engaging in any work! If you no longer have a printed copy, a new one can be downloaded from this page.
Regular Maintenance Requirements
Daily (by owner)
- Ensure that no water leaks are evident around the outside of the water heater, the pressure relief valve, the drain fitting, or from the installer-supplied plumbing connections.
- Visually inspect the exterior of the water heater for signs of discoloration or physical damage.
If any water leaks, discoloration or physical damage are found during visual inspection, please shut off the power and water supplies to the water heater and contact your installer or a qualified service person immediately. Do not attempt to remove any cover panels yourself!
Every 6 Months (by owner)
- Drain the tank and flush to remove sediment.
In areas where the water supply is 7 grain (120mg/L) or higher, this must be carried out monthly.
Annually (qualified service person)
- Test the pressure relief valve operation. If the valve fails to operate correctly, it must be replaced with a new (properly rated) valve before the water heater is put back into operation.
- Remove the heating elements and inspect for limescale. If scale has built up, it must be removed.
- Remove and inspect the two anode rods. If they are partially depleted, they must be replaced*.
*Anode rod part numbers:
The Tronic 5000T storage water heaters each come with two anode rods installed:
- One is built-in to the hot water outlet connection fitting and is used universally across all Tronic 5000T models - Part# 7738007363.
- The other is a standalone anode rod, and it's part# depends on the specific model of Tronic 5000T:
ES30M/ES40M/ES50M: Part# 7738007349.
ES40T/ES50T: Part# 7738007350.
ES40LB/ES50LB: Part# 7738007351.
GreenTronic 7000 T (All Models) Hybrid Electric Water Heaters
Are there any overview or installation videos available for the GreenTronic 7000 T?
There are indeed.
Click the following links to view the videos on our Bosch Home Comfort USA YouTube channel;:
For full details, product information, and literature download links, please visit the product page here.
What is the physical size, dry weight, and water storage capacity of the GreenTronic 7000 T?
There are two sizes available in the GreenTronic 7000T product family.
Please see below for their physical dimensions (Height x Diameter), weight (unfilled), and storage capacity:
TR7000T-50: 66.5in(H) x 21.75in(D) - 218lbs - 50 gallons
TR7000T-80: 74.5in(H) x 25.75in(D) - 293lbs - 80 gallons
For full details, product information, and literature download links, please visit the product page here.
What are the electrical specifications and requirements of the GreenTronic 7000 T?
All GreenTronic 7000T models share the same electrical specifications and requirements;
Supply Voltage; 240VAC (single phase)
Maximum Power Consumption; 5,500w
Recommended Circuit Breaker Size; 30A double pole
Supply Wire Size; 10AWG
For full specifications and installation requirements, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page.
Should the quality of the water that is supplied to the water heater be considered?
As with all water heating equipment, it is important to ensure that it is being supplied with water with a chemistry that meets the requirements of the product.
The GreenTronic 7000T water heater must be supplied with potable water that is free from particulates, corrosive chemicals, and other contaminants, and must meet the following criteria;
pH Level; Between 6.5 and 8.5
Hardness; Between 5 grains/gallon (85mg/L) and 14 grains/gallon (240 mg/L)
Chloride Concentration; Must not exceed 100ppm (mg/L)
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS); Must be less than 500 ppm (mg/L)
Conductivity; Must be less than 1,200µS/cm
If the chemistry of the water supply is outside of the above requirements, we recommend that you work with a water treatment company on identifying the cause and solution. Failure to do so may result in damage and premature failure of the water heater and its components, and will not be covered under warranty.
For full specifications and installation requirements, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page.
Do I have to duct the water heater to outside?
In order to be able to extract heat from the air around it and use it to heat the stored water, the GreenTronic 7000T requires a minimum of 700ft³ of open space around it. If the room that it is installed in isn't large enough to meet that minimum requirement then ducting must be installed.
For more details regarding ducting, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page.
If I choose to install the water heater without it being ducted to the outside, are there any drawbacks?
A side effect of allowing the exhausted air to flow back into the interior space is that it will lower the room temperature in the area.
The reason for this is because a heat pump water heater pulls in air from the space around it and extracts heat from it to help warm up the stored water in the tank (this is the key action that makes this type of product much more efficient than regular electric water heaters). The air that is then released out of the water heater is now colder than it was when it first entered the unit, and over time will act like an air conditioner and lower the temperature in the area.
In an unoccupied area this may be no problem at all for the user, and the larger the area the less the impact will be. However, if the water heater is installed in an area that is occupied, especially a smaller space, you may decide that the area is becoming colder than you would prefer. To avoid this, we recommend that you duct the water heater to outdoors, which will push the colder air out of the indoor space and remove the cooling impact on the area.
For more details regarding ducting, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product. If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page.
I see that I can choose to operate the water heater in different modes. What do the various operation modes do?
The GreenTronic 7000T water heaters are preset to run in "Economy" mode from the factory, but you can use the "Mode" button to choose from five different modes to allow you to choose between various efficiencies and water heating performances to select a combination that works best for your needs.
Here is a description of each of the five modes;
"ECONOMY"
Economy mode utilizes both the heat pump and the electric heating elements to heat up the water.
Efficiency is high, while it takes longer to heat up the water.
"HYBRID"
Hybrid mode utilizes both the heat pump and the electric heating elements to heat up the water.
Efficiency is lower but the water heats up faster compared to Economy mode.
"E-HEATER"
This mode only utilizes the two electric heating elements to heat up the water, the heat pump portion of the appliance is turned off.
It is the least economical mode but is the fastest way to heat up the water.
"HEAT PUMP"
Utilizes only the heat pump to heat up the water, the electric elements are not used.
It is the most efficient way to heat up the water but also takes the longest.
"VACATION"
The water heater will maintain the stored water at 59°F (15°C) to protect from freezing and reduce energy usage. You can choose the duration of the Vacation from 1 – 360 days.
For full details, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page.
The displayed temperature on the screen is fluctuating. Is this a problem?
No, it's nothing to be concerned about and is perfectly normal.
Similar to air, hot water rises and cold water sinks. This creates a constant mixing in the tank as cold water enters the bottom of the tank and hot water is drawn from the top. As the cooler water on the bottom is heated, it starts to rise and mix with the hotter water on top.
This mixing action can create fluctuations in the water heater display temperature, especially after large usages of hot water.
What is an anode rod, and why does it need to be regularly checked/replaced?
An anode rod is a replaceable component inside most water storage tanks, including our electric storage water heating products, and its purpose is to sacrifice itself over time to protect the water tank from corrosion.
In order to prevent the metal components of the tank from corroding, it is important to check the condition of the anode rod regularly.
As the corrosive properties of water can vary from location to location, the frequency of when you should check the condition of the anode rod differs too.
We recommend the first check be carried out six months after installation and then annually going forward, but in locations where the water chemistry is causing the anode rods to deplete faster, check it more frequently.
If the inspection reveals that the anode rod has depleted to less than 1/2in in diameter, is pitted, or is coated in scale, it must be replaced immediately (see below for part number). Failure to do so can result in premature failure of the water heater, which will not be covered under warranty.
Anode rod part numbers:
The GreenTronic 7000T hybrid water heaters come with a magnesium anode rod already installed. When it comes time to replace it, you must purchase and install the correct rod for your particular water heater model;
- Replacement magnesium Anode Rod for 50 gallon GreenTronic 7000 T - 7738007478
- Replacement magnesium Anode Rod for 80 gallon GreenTronic 7000 T -7738007479
For directions on where to find the anode rod and how to check it, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page.
The water coming out of my hot fixtures is brown or orange. What can cause that?
If you notice that the hot water coming from the water heater is brown or orange in color, then this could be an indication that the anode rod inside the appliance is depleting and the tank itself is now corroding.
Please refer to the manual that came with the product on how to check the anode rod.
If the inspection reveals that the anode rod has depleted to less than 1/2in in diameter, is pitted, or is coated in scale, it must be replaced immediately (see list below for part numbers).
Failure to do so can result in premature failure of the water heater, which will not be covered under warranty.
Anode rod part number:
- Replacement magnesium Anode Rod for 50 gallon GreenTronic 7000 T - 7738007478
- Replacement magnesium Anode Rod for 80 gallon GreenTronic 7000 T -7738007479
For directions on where to find the anode rod and how to check it, please refer to the installation manual that came with your product.
If you do not have the manual, one can be downloaded from this web page.
My hot water has a sulfur smell, similar to eggs. What can cause that?
If you notice an unusual egg-like odor to the hot water that is coming from the water heater, this could indicate a reaction between the chemistry of your water supply and the magnesium anode rod inside the water heater (the odor can be more prominent in properties that are using softened water).
This is not a condition that is caused by the product itself, it is instead a property of the water supply.
If you are experiencing this odor, we recommend that you utilize a water testing and treatment company to assess the water chemistry in your home and address it as needed.